How To Breed Superworms Easily

Superworms are some of the best sources of nutrients for your fish and you can breed them inside your home easily. Compared to mealworm, superworm (also known as King worm) is softer and could be easily digested by your fish. Breeding superworms are not costly and it could be done with the simple process, with a little patience you could have your own fish feed continuously and save you lots of money.

Superworms have typically four (4) life stages, namely: egg, larva, pupae and beetle. The only ones that reproduce are the beetles, they will continue the breeding process. Breeding your own feeders is the best way to save you money on your fish food cost and at the same time, you enjoy all its benefits. This tutorial is about, “How to breed superworms” it is your gateway to start a worm colony that could lead you to an unlimited supply of fish feed.

How To Breed Superworms

You only need to buy a good number of superworm larvae that is ready to pupate in a matter of days. At this stage, the worms are much easier to raise and bring into metamorphose state. The pupation of the worms is an important phase of the life cycle and the only means to acquire the needed beetles for breeding.

These are the things that you will need to start your own superworm colony at the convenience of your home:

  • 100 pieces 35mm film containers or baby food jars (or similar containers).
  • 2 Plastic trays with mesh cover and dimensions of 14 X 10 X 3.5 inches (such as Rubbermaid or Sterilite brands).
  • A colony of worms (about 100 individuals, such as the Worm Man’s Worm Farm brand).
  • Substrate (you can use oat bran, wheat germ or rolled oats).
  • Egg crates.
  • Thermometer.
  • Worm food ( like carrots, potato or apples).

Step By Step Instructions

Housing The Larvae

Live superworms could be ordered online and delivered to you in about 3 days. Once your package arrives, put each worm in clean 35mm film containers or baby food jars (whichever is available). Punch a hole on the covers for the worms to breath. They need to be separated individually in order for them to pupate, which could take about 2 weeks. Ambient temperature should be kept between 70F and 80F and put them in the darker part of the house.

Keeping them together is a no-no, as you cannot obtain the needed beetles for another cycle. Keep the containers covered during this time and do not give them food or water to avoid prolonging its morphing process.

Monitoring The Worms

Check on the worms every now and then. Better to take a peek at the containers as often as you could and check the ambient temperature. If the room is becoming colder, adjust your heater. On the other hand, if the room is becoming hotter, just open some windows slightly so that cold air will circulate freely inside the room.

Larva To Pupae

After several days, the worms will hibernate and will become dormant. During the first week of the morphing process, you could find curled up worms ( in a letter “C” or “E” position). This is a good sign as the worms have proof of life which indicate that they are beginning to morph. Keep on checking as long as you have the time, including the ambient temperature which should be kept still between 70F to 80F. The stage from larva to pupate lasts from 1 to 2 weeks.

Separate Or Dispose The Dead

There's also a possibility that you could find worms in a straight position, sometimes they appeared black in color and hard. These are dead worms and you have to separate and dispose them properly.

Pupae To Beetle

At the end of the second week of morphing, you will find their legs getting darker, this is a sign that beetles are emerging. The pupated worms will appear white or cream in color during this time. The stage from pupae to beetle also takes 1 to 2 weeks.

Transfering The Beetles In A Larger Container

Before the second week of morphing ends, the worms are now transformed into beetles. It is now time to put them together in a larger container. This will now become the beetles’ breeding ground. Before transferring, put substrate at the bottom of the larger container (Rubbermaid or Sterilite) at least 1-inch thick that will serve as bedding. The beetles will eat the substrate and consequently lay their eggs in the surface.

Add the egg tray in one corner of the container to serve as the beetles’ gathering place. This will keep the beetles from digging into the substrate and eat the eggs laid in there. Add the worm food (sliced carrots, potato or apple ) or water crystals that will serve as the beetles’ water source for drinking and moisture. It is advisable that they are given enough water source because too much water will get into the substrate and this may ferment the bedding, creating unwanted bacteria that could kill the beetles. Consequently, the lack of water or moisture inside the container will dehydrate the beetles, there is a big possibility that they will devour each other. So, better not to forget these important tips.

Raising Superworms

When the beetles are already laying eggs, transfer the beetles on a fresh and clean container every 2 to 4 weeks, with also new bedding and worm feeds, to start again another cycle of egg laying. The eggs left behind will be hatched within 3 weeks after they are laid. Before they are hatched, add again slices of apples, potatoes or carrots for the worms to feed.

These pupae are now the superworms that you can feed to your fish. The beetles you have separated in another container will continue the cycle of laying eggs. Adult beetles have a lifespan of about 5 months. A female beetle lays about 500 eggs during its lifetime.

Conclusion

Did you enjoy this tutorial? Now that you found out that how to breed super worms is an easy task, combined with patience and perseverance, you can have an unlimited supply of fish feed on demand. You just continue and repeat the breeding process once you produced the beetles and eggs. What a clever idea, really!

What do you think of this tutorial? Did you like it? Please share what you have in mind about this useful article with your comments.

How To Humanely Kill A Fish Without The Guilt

What if your fish suddenly becomes ill and there is no way to save or cure it? This is certainly tragic. Of course, there are ways to avoid this scenario, but we have to accept the reality and sometimes we have to sometimes succumb to nature's heartbreaking wishes. If everything fails and there is no other way to save the life of your pet, there is a better way to end its life than to wait and let it suffer.

To bury a fish while it is alive is inhumane. Euthanasia (mercy killing) is the only remaining option on how to humanely kill a fish. If euthanasia is inevitable, you must be willing to accept the truth and consider this option to end your pet's suffering promptly. This article will certainly give you some idea of the various methods of mercy killing a fish.

What You Will Need To Follow This Tutorial

The materials/ tools and drugs listed below are not necessarily all that you will need to euthanize your very sick fish. You can read all of the information containin this article first and decide later on the best way for you to kill your fish quickly and without guilt.

Using Drugs/ Anesthetics

  • Tricaine Methanesulfonate -TMS (commonly known as MS-222).
  • Clove Oil/ Vodka.
  • Benzocaine HCL.
  • Syringe with needle.
  • Acetone/ ethanol.

Using Simple Methods

  • Knife/ club.

Step By Step Instructions

Here are the various methods you need to know in order to humanely kill a fish.

MS-222 Method

TMS is one of the most popular euthanizing methods among the academic sectors which use fish for experiments or studies. MS-222 is known in the market as Finquel and is available in pet stores. It is a type of anesthesia and the only product approved by FDA for use to euthanizing fish by injection. The lethal dose is usually 250 to 500 mg depending on the size of your fish.

Dissolve a substantial amount of the powder, MS-222, in a glass or bottle and transfer the mixture in a syringe. Inject this drug into your fish's bloodstream and it will consequently die within minutes without prolong pain and suffering.

Clove Oil /Vodka Method

Dissolve 13 drops of clove oil in a liter of water in a small container where the fish can be funny submerged. This will anesthetize the fish enabling it to sleep and consequently will be unable to feel pain. Next, pour a glass of vodka, (a grain alcohol) in to the container. The strong alcohol in vodka will certainly kill the fish.

Benzocaine Method

This drug requires a veterinarian's prescription and is not readily available over-the-counter. This drug is not water soluble and must be mixed with acetone or ethanol for it to euthanize the fish.

Soak the fish in a container (this requires only a small amount of water) with this mixture and it will die within minutes as these chemicals irritate fish tissue causing it to go into a comma and lead to death.

Using A Knife

Physically, killing a fish is one of the quickest methods. Using a sharp knife, insert it behind the skull of the fish severing its spinal cord and vertebrae. This will kill the fish instantly.

Using A Club (Decapitation)

This method is also quick and swift. Strike the fish on its head with the club larger end of the fish. This will make the fish unconscious. Once the fish is unconscious, cut its head immediately. The fish will have no timeto feel the pain or suffer.

How To Dispose Of A Dead Fish

Now that you have a dead fish in your possession, you can bury it at least a foot deep in your own backyard (you might follow some local ordinances regarding this matter). If you have no available soil, such as those living in condominiums, you can bury the fish in a potted plant

Conclusion

Like and share if you are satisfied with this tutorial and we hope that we could bring more interesting advice and tips about your favorite hobby.

How To Grow Algae For Your Aquarium

Most of the time, you want to reduce the amount of algae or eradicate it. On the other hand, it may be beneficial to promote algae growth in your fish tank as many aquarium fish thrive from eating this organism.

Allowing the growth of algae inside your fish tank is quite easy. But first, you should know that initially growing algae is best suited outside of the fish tank. Algae is eaten by some of the fish species and other marine animals, such as the Bristlenose Plecos, Siamese Algae Eater, Tropheus cichlids, some Malawi cichlids, Twig Cat Fish, Dwarf Otocinclus (aka Otos), Mollies, Barbs, Malaysian Trumpet Snail, Nerite Snails, Amano Shrimp and small goldfish. If you have one of these animals as a pet, you can save a lot from your weekly food bill by learning how to grow algae. So you can certainly learn a lot from this tutorial, keep on reading.

What You Will Need

When you already have an aquarium in existence, it is best to grow algae separately. Let the algae nourish inside another container and introduce the algae into your fish tank when it is finally time to mix it with the aquarium water. Here are the different tools and materials that you should need to grow algae in a home setting:

  • 2 medium (500 ml) containers.
  • Freshwater.
  • Nutrient Solution (such as Walne brand).
  • Thermometer.
  • Fluorescent compact bulb.
  • Aluminum foil.
  • Water sample from pet shop.

Step By Step Instructions

1. Making A Growth Medium

Filling Water Into The Container

When using a container as a growth medium, be sure that it is totally clean and sterilized before putting water into it. After cleaning the container (flask), pour fresh water ( tap or spring water) into the container, you can boil your water if you suspect it is contaminated.

Supplementing Nutrients

Add Nutrient Solution to the water at the end, such as nitrates, silicates, and phosphates. Algae co-exist naturally with other aquatic life and they keep the ecosystem underwater in equilibrium. The lack of nutrients will the production of algae.

Additionally, micro-nutrients like vitamins and trace metals are also needed to produce algae inside your container. Adding a substantial amount of Nutrient Solution to the container will begin the process of producing these nutrients and vitamins. Nutrient Solution ( you can research other brands) is available at your pet store. Ask your veterinarian for the right amount of this solution to produce enough algae in your container. Cover the container with aluminum foil to allow air and carbon dioxide to circulate. Carbon dioxide also feeds algae.

Keep The Container Under Plenty Of Sunlight

Algae grow and thrive in high light levels. Place your container where there is plenty of sunlight as this will provide the energy the tiny organism need to thrive and reproduce. The ideal temperature for algae growth is 29 to 34C (84 to 93F). However, avoid excessive exposure to light during the day as this may mean higher temperature. Furthermore, at night time where sunlight is absent, you can leave your container near a fluorescent bulb or other heating unit to maintain the temperature, just like when incubating an egg. Monitor its temperature occasionally.

2. Introducing An Algae Sample

Choosing The Type Of Algae

The best type of algae you want to grow is the one that would be eaten by your fish. In this case, you can ask your pet dealer on what species of algae is conducive for your preferred fish species.

Gather An Algae Specimen

It is now time to add a specimen sample to your water. Again, the best source of this sample is from your dealer’s aquarium where you purchase your fish. A good sample of 150 to 250ml is an adequate amount. Pour the specimen sample into your growth medium making sure the right amount of light is still available. Continue to maintain the right temperature and appropriate amount of sunlight and you may able to see algae growth within 4 days.

Adding Nutrients If Needed

As the algae absorb carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and this benefits its growth. However, to sustain a good quality algae as fish food, add some nutrients to it by allowing a few drops of Nutrient Solution. As the algae grows, It will become compact inside the container and may appear green. Green algae is a good variety for your fish to eat.

Transferring Algae To Another Container

Full-blown algae you should be able to see in your container after 8-10 days. You can transfer a substantial amount to the medium-sized container you prepared previously. This will serve as a seed for your next growth medium for separate algae growth so that you have a continuous supply of algae to feed your fish continuously. You will not need to get a sample from your favorite pet store.

To be able to have a continuous supply of algae to feed your fish, just repeat the process we have described above, again and again. Meanwhile, you are now ready to pour your cultured algae into your fish tank where your fish are waiting.

Conclusion

Did you enjoy this tutorial on how to grow algae for your aquarium even if you are not a chemist? We hope you did, and you can learn to grow the duckweed here. Producing weekly food for your fish is truly easy and enjoyable. You can really save a lot on your food bill, and you could be able to enjoy the fruit of your labor. Also, you can provide them the much-needed nutrients from organic food. Share this article with your friends and other aquarists so that they may find a better alternative in keeping algae-eating pets healthy and happy.

How To Increase Or Decrease PH In An Aquarium In Easy Methods

Remember what you have studied in your high school chemistry about pH? Well, it will surely have a significant role to play in the pursuit of a successful and fruitful aquarium hobby of yours. In chemistry, pH (roughly means “potential of hydrogen) is the measurement of the acidity and alkalinity of liquid. Drinking water has a pH of 7 (neutral), meaning it is neither acidic nor basic.

In an aquarium setting, the pH level could vary or be totally different before and after every change of water. The increases or decreases in pH level will certainly have an impact on the health of your fish inside the tank, and worst, it might kill your fish if not attended properly. Common fish species thrive on a pH level ranging from 6.5 to 8.5. Seawater has an average pH of 8.1 on its surface. On this article, we are going to show you some valuable tips on how to adjust pH level (increasing or decreasing) inside your aquarium. Firstly, you should know its effect.

I. What Are The Effects Of High/Low PH Level In Your Aquarium?

1. High PH Induces Hig Alkalinity

Fish thrive and survive on a pH level range of 6.5 to 8.5, as we have stated earlier, but what will happen if the pH level surpasses 8.5? Here are some of the effects on your fish and the environment inside the tank:

  • Affects the fish’ s gills (like abnormal secretion of mucus).
  • The fish will suffer alkalosis that will make them behave unusually like like erratic swimming, labored breathing, coughing.
  • Algae growth in the walls and tank’s ornaments.
  • Consequent death of fish if not properly attended on time.

2. Low PH Induces Highly Acidic

Low pH value is a sign of increase acidity on the water. The value less than 6.5 should also be a cause for alarm. Like abnormally high pH, low pH may induce high acidity on the water, here are some of its detrimental effects on the fish:

  • Fish will have an excessive mucous production.
  • Fish skin will become easily irritated and may cause to burn slightly.
  • The fish may inhibit gasping and hyperplasia (the thickening of gills and skin).
  • Blindness and eye damage on the fish.
  • The fish will consequently die if untreated.

II. What You Need To Test PH Level

There are various ways to determine the pH value of the water inside your fish tank. Here are some of the most common tools:

  • pH Meter.
  • Litmus paper (pH only).
  • Universal Test strip (pH only).
  • API Master Test Kit (includes ammonia, nitrite and nitrate level measurements).
  • TetraTest Kit (pH only).

III. What You Need To Increase/ Decrease PH Level

Some of the tools you need to increase or decrease the pH level of the water are already installed inside the fish tank. Others are readily available from your nearest convenience store or pet store, be sure that you have these stuff handy every time.

  • Live plants/ ornaments.
  • Bubble disk.
  • Bubble wands.
  • Powerheads.
  • Peat moss.
  • Driftwood.
  • Baking soda.

IV. Step By Step Instructions To Increase Or Decrease The Water’s PH Level

Always remember that sudden change in the water’s pH level is also detrimental to the fish. Learn how to increase or decrease pH level gradually (the increase or decrease of 0.3 unit of pH per day is ideal). Also, before you make the necessary adjustments, be sure that the fish is not inside the tank but in a safe place or container. Once you know the exact condition of the water in your fish tank, here are some of the basic methods on how to lower/ adjust its pH level:

1. Lowering PH Level

  • ADD LIVE PLANT ORNAMENTS
  • INCREASE AERATION
  • ADD DRIFTWOOD

Putting additional live plants inside the fish tank could help in reducing the pH level as live plants could induce significant amounts of CO2 (carbon dioxide) as plants absorb this gas from the atmosphere.

2. Increasing PH Level

  • Using baking soda

One of the most common methods of raising the pH level on aquariums is by using baking soda. A teaspoon of baking soda with 5 gal. of water is a safe dose and will not harm the fish. An incremental increase of this dose on conditioned water is advised until you attain the desired pH level of the water.

VI. Conclusion

Making your tank as fish-friendly as possible is not really a difficult task to do. Even novices can easily understand and perform lowering or increasing the pH level in the aquarium with ease and confidence. Additionally, accessories inside the aquarium, such as driftwood and other airstones are good decorations and ornaments inside your fish tank and they come cheap, while they also make water quality inside the tank more pleasurable to your pet. Do you find this article helpful? Share this and let us know in the comments!

How To Take Care Of Goldfish Even If You Are A Novice

Goldfish is one of the most commonly kept aquarium fish by pet enthusiasts and the most popular first fish aquarists would like to own. Goldfish is also much cheaper among other fish for domestication and it could be easily raised and cared for with the minimum of effort.

First- time aquarium owners also prefer goldfish than any other fish primarily because it has several varieties that pet lovers can choose from. There is species like the Common Goldfish, Celestial Eye, Pompom, Lionhead, Ryukin, Fantail, Comet, Oranda and other goldfish varieties that are readily available from your favorite pet store. We could certainly provide you the basic knowledge on how to take care of goldfish even if you are a beginner. Read on.

I. What You Will Need To Follow This Tutorial

1. Right Size Fish Tank

Single goldfish needs about 10-15 US gal. of water to roam around inside a fish tank in the relaxed and enjoyable mood. This is the minimum size of the tank you can use for one goldfish. They grow at a tremendous size ranging from 10 to 12 inches and more and last for more than a decade if cared for properly. You will need another 10 gal. (roughly 37.8 liters) of water for each goldfish.

When you can decide on what number of goldfish you want to care of, you can then pick and set up the right aquarium size.

2. Ensure Ideal Equipment/Materials Are In Hand

Prepare for the right equipment and materials you will need in setting up an aquarium for goldfish. Here is the list of what you will need:

  • Tank substrates: Pea-sized gravel.
  • Lighting: Preferably fluorescent bulb.
  • Ornaments: Live or plastic plants.
  • Heater: For colder region (optional).
  • Filter and water pump.
  • Dechlorinator or use distilled water.
  • Airstones (Bubble disks, bubble wands).
  • Universal Test Strip.
  • API Master Test Kit.

3. Prepare The Right Food For Your Goldfish

Typical food given to goldfish are pellet food, live foods, that include brine shrimp or dry food, such as blood worms, mosquito larvae and other freeze-dried foods. Consult your local pet store for other readily-available types of food for your convenience.

II. Step By Step Instructions

​Now that you had prepared the necessary material, equipment and other pertinent tools to have a perfect fish tank for your awesome goldfish in mind, you are now ready to go with these simplified instructions in caring for your favorite pet. Here are the necessary steps:

1. Filling The Tank With Water

After satisfying activities of preparing your aquarium with the proper equipment, you are now ready to fill it with water. The most common and least expensive water to use is from the tap but treated with the right water conditioning solution or dechlorination or use distilled water (available at a nearby convenience store). Your pet store will certainly advise you the proper method in dechlorinating your tap water, as water hardness differs from every region.

2. PH, Ammonia, Nitrate And Nitrite Measurements

Before adding your fish, make some “dry run” test on the water, like testing its pH level, ammonia content, and nitrite and nitrate levels. Common goldfish thrive at 7.2-7.6 pH level (some species are adaptable to 6.5 to 8.5 pH level) which is usually the hardness of tap water. Ammonia and nitrite should be zero (0) while nitrate must be less than 20. Use a liquid test kit, such as the API Master Test Kit to get the value of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate in the water. A Universal Test strip will give you the true value of pH on the water.

3. Add Light, Filter And Ornaments

Install proper lighting (fluorescent bulb) for the tank as goldfish need good light to maintain better wake and sleep cycle. An attractive aquascape is also healthy for the fish, install your ornaments (could be live or plastic plants) and other visually enchanting decorations inside the tank. Add water heater if necessary, as goldfish prefer 20-22C (68-72F) water temperature. Finally, a suitable filtering medium (both biological and chemical) for removing excess food and fish feces, odor, unwanted chemicals and other debris.

4. Adding The Goldfish

When you satisfy all the requirements given above, you are now ready to add your goldfish. If you want more than one fish, be sure that they are of the same as goldfish are known to eat smaller fish. Male and female genders are a good combination (your supplier could certainly distinguish the fish sexes).

5. Feeding The Fish

The fish should be fed once to twice a day. Feed the fish only at their capacity and do not overfeed them as this is detrimental to the goldfish. Floating foods should be soaked in water for a few minutes so that it will sink, avoiding air that the fish could swallow. The fish should be fed once in the morning and once at night, preferably in the same spot in the aquarium.

6. Checking Oxygen Level

Always take a notice of it that the oxygen level in the fish tank is fine. Initially, you can tell that the oxygen level is decreasing if you notice the fish are gathering at the surface. You can fix this by lowering the temperature of the water. One possible cause is that the tank is exposed to sunlight or other heat sources such as lighting. Cover the tank from the sun or shut off the light to lower the water temperature. Other cause may be the varying pH level. Bubble wands, bubble disks and other airstones are good providers of oxygen inside the tank and they are also great decorations.

7. Proper Maintenance

Water at your fish tank should be replaced regularly at least once a week or if the need arises. Check its pH level, ammonia content, and nitrite and nitrate levels occasionally when you sense something is not normal in the tank or do it regularly every time you do the change of water. You must have a ready set of test kit every time you wash.

III. Conclusion

Even if you are a beginner, this tutorial on how to take care of goldfish is truly simple and could be done as easy as tying your shoe laces. It will not even cost you a fortune, what you can reap is an awesome joy and satisfaction once you achieve your goal of having a beautiful and scenic aquarium right at your home or your office. Anyone wishing to have their fish tank to be inhabited by goldfish must begin to realize that this activity is almost effortless but a worthwhile hobby that could indulge therapeutic effect on the mind and body.

How To Breed Betta Fish – A Simple 6 Step Guide

If you’re interested in breeding Betta fishes, sometimes commonly known as ‘fighting fish’, you’ve probably been wracking your brains over it.

Be it breeding for a hobby, supplying a fish store, or whatever purpose you may have, the process is similar but requires a clear understanding to achieve success. We’re going to provide you a detailed 6 steps that will guide you from start to finish.

However here’s one thing you have to know before deciding to breed Betta fishes:

The Entire Process Of Breeding Betta Fish Takes About 6-8 Months.

This is a long process which requires the commitment of time and money. If you’re not in it for the long term or are planning to travel within this time, we recommend putting this off to when you’ll be better prepared.

Here is the equipment you’ll need apart from a standard tank set-up:

If you’re decidedly in, then let’s start breeding!


Step 1: Choosing The Breeding Pair

Selecting which fishes to use for breeding is an important aspect, as it determines the health of the offspring, the color and tail type.

An optimum breeding pair should be no older than 1 year old, preferably between 6-8 months old for both male and female.

You can select the best fishes either from a fish store or from a fellow breeder who will likely be more able to provide you with better genetics.

Step 2: Preparing For Breeding

For breeding of Betta fish, you can choose to use 2 smaller tanks for the mating fishes, or you can simply use one 10 gallon tank to house both fishes together, separated by the removable divider. We prefer using one tank as it is easier and more cost-effective.

After cycling the fish tank, set it up as you normally would except do not add any gravel or substrate, as the fish eggs will land within and get lost.

Set the temperature of the heater to be 80 Fahrenheit or 26.7 degree Celsius.

Lastly, add some live plants within as this will be the hiding spots for the female Betta not to get too badly injured by the male.

Step 3: Introduction And Conditioning Of Fishes

You can now add the male and female Betta fish into the tank, separated by the divider. The rationale here is key. Allowing both fishes to see each other and not have contact will prevent the male from attacking the female while letting them get familiar, which is optimal for breeding.

Once both fishes have been added, you will need to condition them by feeding them live food such as:

  • Blood worms.
  • Live brine shrimp.

If live food is unavailable in your area, you can substitute it with freeze-dried alternatives.

Feed them the live food for about a week and observe their behaviors for these signs which will tell if they are ready to mate.

Male signs:

  • Flaring of tail.
  • Building of a white bubble nest.

Females signs:

  • Angling of her head down, showing submissiveness.
  • Vertical stripes appearing on the body

Step 4: Allowing Your Fish To Breed

Once your fishes are ready to mate based on their patterns, the key being the male building the bubble nest, you can now remove the divider and let them have contact.

Turn off your tank filter once they have contact.

How it will play out is the male will very likely bully the female by nipping on her tail and always chasing her. This is normal unless the female is heavily injured. The plants around the tank will allow her to hide to escape massive injuries.

Monitor both fishes regularly. The entire courtship may last from a few hours to a few days.

Mating occurs when the male wraps himself around the female to fertilize. This will likely happen with a few attempts.

After which the female will start to lay eggs and drop them into the water. The male will carry these eggs and put them into the bubble nest he made.

One thing to watch out for is the female sometimes will eat the eggs, so monitor the female and remove her if she attempts to do so.

Step 5: Post- Mating Care

Once all the eggs have been laid and been placed inside the bubble nest, you must now remove the female fish and place her into another tank.

Leave the male with the eggs but do not feed him for a few days to prevent him from accidentally eating the eggs.

Let the male continue to be in the tank until the fry can swim which will be around 3 days after the eggs hatch.

Continue to keep the filter off to prevent it from disturbing the eggs and fry. Keep the tank’s light during day and night for this period.

Once most or all of the fries have hatched and are swimming around horizontally, you can now remove the male Betta and place him in another tank. It is now time to care and grow the fry.

Step 6: Growing The Fries To Adulthood

Once the fries are swimming, you can start feeding them live micro food such as Infusoria, microworms, or baby brine shrimp.

You will have to change the water (about 10%) frequently every few days to ensure the fishes live in a healthy water and not fall sick.

Once slightly older, you can change the live food and start feeding them frozen food or fish pellets. Ensure that they are small enough for the fry to consume and always clear uneaten food to maintain a healthy water ecosystem.

Care for the fry until they are 8 – 11 weeks old, by which some to most of their adult traits will appear.

Before long you will have a new batch of healthy Betta fishes and you can choose to continue breeding more, simply rear, or sell them to another breeder.

Voila!

Following these steps you’ll now know exactly what and how you can successfully breed Betta fish. Do be aware that many of the fish eggs and fries will not make it but it is normal. Hence out of the 500+ eggs laid, a good handful of fully grown Bettas will be an achievement.

Get out there and start breeding!

How To Set Up A Fish Tank Even If You Are A Beginner

Are you one of those who want to maintain a fish tank inside your home or your office? Do you have no knowledge about setting up this wonderful hobby? Setting up your own aquarium is not as difficult as you had thought, amateur enthusiasts will certainly have a grand time setting up this new hobby without the hitch.

I had compiled this article in good faith to help you put a little effort in assembling a fish tank that does not cost you a fortune, just perfect for a terrific leisure activity that will definitely bring you great fun. But first, you must give credence to these 3 simple parameters in order to make you successful in your endeavor: a) location, b) size, and c) construction (material).

Parameters

1. An Ideal Location

Find a perfect location as to where your aquarium should be placed. If inside your home, find a suitable place where direct sunlight is absent to avoid growth of algae and higher temperature of the water. The spot should also be where you always spend most of your time, so that you have eyes on your pets most of the time. An spacious place is also much prepared to give you easy access for cleaning and maintenance.

There should also be ready electric outlet near the aquarium for its electronic accessories and ready water source close to the tank for quick and easy water change. To achieve a healthy aquarium anytime, its water temperature should be kept at standard (76 to 80F or 25 to 27C) or the preferred temperature of your fish species (this could be known from your local pet store), so better to keep the tank away from those heating and air conditioning vents and outside entrance areas. Also, choose the best part of the house where the floor is perfectly leveled and strong enough to withstand the weight of the aquarium and its stand.

2. The Best Size

Experts unanimously agreed that there is no sole aquarium that is right for everyone, meaning, you must take into consideration important factors when choosing the right aquarium that best fit your home or office. The minimum size that you should choose is the size where your pet fish will thrive. Just remember that the bigger the fish tank, the better it is for the fish that will house in it. Consult your pet store on what is the best species of fish that will surely thrive on your locality.

3. What Material You Prefer

There are 2 types of fish tank material (for domestic use) available in the market today: glass and acrylic. Glass aquarium is inexpensive and scratch-resistant, but could easily break in earthquake prone areas or locality that experience frequent shaking of the ground. While the acrylic type is more durable from shaking, less scratch-resistant, it is more expensive than glass. Additionally, though acrylic is less scratch-resistant, it could be easily repaired as it is flexible and pliable.


List Of Equipment

Next, you must know the different equipment needed to keep fish indoors before you do the step-by-step installation for your fish tank. Here are some of the basic equipment you will certainly need to set up your own fish tank:

Next, you must know the different equipment needed to keep fish indoors before you do the step-by-step installation for your fish tank. Here are some of the basic equipment you will certainly need to set up your own fish tank:

Step By Step Instructions

After you have completed the equipment above and satisfied other conditions that we have laid, you are now ready to set up your own fish tank, just follow these simple instructions:

  • Wash the aquarium gravel, ornaments and rocks thoroughly with warm water and rinse rigorously. Do not use detergent as this is highly toxic for the fish.
  • Put water on the tank at 1/3 full from the tap and add some water conditioner to dechlorinate the water (you can use AquaSafe Solution or similar brand). Chlorine is harmful to your fish of any species.
  • Connect your air pump from the air line tube to any of the air outlet inside the tank. The pump is equipped with a check valve that prevents the water from flowing backwards. Make sure this valve is properly operating.
  • You can add live or plastic plants to decorate the tank. These also help to hide the equipment. Show the artist in you by making this “aquascape” more lively.
  • Fill in the rest of the water until it reaches the bottom of the top frame and leave a space between the cover and the water.
  • Install the filter (read manufacturer’s instructions on the filter’s proper installation) to a more strategic location inside the tank. Be sure that the tube is placed on the bottom of the tank without touching the gravel.This filter removes excess fish food, floating particulates, decaying matter, toxic chemicals and your pet’s waste products.
  • Place the submersible heater inside the tank near the water flow and secure the thermometer far from the heater as possible. When everything is set, plug in the filter, pump and heater. Adjust the heater to its proper temperature. Wait at least 24 hours before you put your fish to ensure all equipment are working properly.
  • After a few hours, check the water condition and temperature. Sometimes, water inside the tank may show cloudy in a couple of days. This phenomenon is the effect of bacterial growth that is harmless to the fish and will deplete naturally. Check the water’s pH level by using a TetraTest kit or a similar kit.
  • Install the proper lighting (preferably small N.O.-type fluorescent light) at the top of the tank to illuminate the fish and the entire tank especially at night. Fluorescent light does not emit too much heat compared to incandescent bulb and not to bright compared to LED which is quiet annoying for the fish.
  • After realizing that all is well and made up, you are now ready to put your favorite pet fish on your self-made fish tank! Congratulations!

Conclusion

How do you find this simple instructions on starting up your own fish tank? Did you enjoy it? You will definitely find that it is not as elaborate as thought. Additionally, you can always consult your local pet store regarding this hobby 9especially the type of food for your fish) and they will certainly entertain you wholeheartedly.

Maintaining your aquarium is also a lot easier when you would love doing it. Changing water on the tank is also advisable on a weekly basis. Research anything on the net when you are in doubt for other maintenance. The products that you would need to maintain clean air and clean water have their clear instructions written on the packaging, just understand them thoroughly. Keeping your fish happy and healthy depends upon your eagerness to care for them.

A Step By Step Guide: How To Cycle Your Fish Tank

Aquarium cycling (NOT the bicycle sport) is a term unknown to most outside of the aquatic world. But contrary to its lack of popularity, cycling a fish tank is arguably the heaviest factor every fish owner, beginner to expert has to master to have their fishes survive longer than a week.

What Exactly Is Cycling Your Fish Tank?

To cycle your fish tank is to remove all the toxic chemicals from your aquarium’s ecosystem by creating a healthy amount of beneficial bacteria as part of the tank’s biological filter.

This is very important because all newly set-up fish tanks have dangerously high amounts of toxins, namely ammonia. Which without cycling, will cause major stress and illness to your fishes leading to them potentially dying within a few days.

To sum up briefly, in a full cycling process the toxins in the water start off as ammonia (toxic), becomes nitrite (toxic), and finally gets digested to become nitrate (non-toxic).

In this guide, we’ll be teaching you the exact steps to the 2 types of cycling methods, all of the equipment you’ll need, and how to do all of this in the fastest and most reliable way.

There Are 2 Methods To Cycle Your Fish Tank:

  • Cycling with fishes.
  • Cycling without fishes

Things You Will Need

  • Hardy fishes (about 2-3).
  • Water treatment conditioner.
  • Toxin level measurement test kit (this can be found in local fish stores).

And that’s exactly all that you’ll need. Let’s get started!


How To Cycle Your Fish Tank

Method 1: With Fish Cycling

We will begin with everything you would want in your fish tank to be already set up, minus the fishes (filters, heaters, air pumps, decorations, substrate).

1. Start By Introducing About 2- 3 Hardy Fishes Into Your Fish Tank.

Hardy fishes are very adaptable fishes that can survive in harsh or toxic environments. And for this purpose they are added because they can survive the high toxic waste in the aquarium.

The fishes are the main catalyst for this cycling method. They are able to survive long enough to produce waste that decays to culture beneficial bacteria, cleansing the toxins in the ecosystem.

Common hardy fishes: Zebra Danios, Minnows and most guppies are good hardy fishes to use.

2. Next, Feed The Fishes Thriftily.

Take note not to overfeed the fishes, we recommend feeding them once every few days. You cannot overfeed and have excess food leftover as:

  • The fishes will produce more waste that increases toxin levels faster than the beneficial bacteria can grow.
  • The food will decay and produce more toxins.

3. Regularly Change 10-20% Of The Water (Every 3-4 Days)

This regulates and lowers the toxic waste level in the aquarium. Take note to use treated dechlorinated water.

4. Lastly, Use The Test Measurement Kit To Measure Toxin Levels Of Ammonia And Nitrite.

Test the levels daily to keep track of the toxin levels, continue to maintain the upkeep until the toxin levels of both chemicals drop to a level so low that it becomes undetectable.

Ammonia levels should be below 0.5mg/L, and nitrite below 1mg/L.

Once you’ve reached an untraceable toxin level, you would have now successfully cycled your fish tank. You can now gradually add fishes that will be safe in a healthy aquarium!

This entire cycling process takes about 6-8 weeks to reach completion.

Method 2: Without Fish Cycling

This is considered the more humane option as it doesn’t expose fishes to dangerous toxic environments. This method involves adding biological waste manually, however it requires more patience to reach fruition.

Similarly, begin with your fish tank all set up, minus the fishes.

1. Start By Adding Fish Food Into The Tank.

Add the same amount as you would normally feed 3-4 fishes. Then you simply wait for the food to decay and release waste product into the water. This will take a few days and will produce beneficial bacteria growth.

2. Use The Measuring Test Kit To Measure Ammonia Levels.

You will need the ammonia level to be at least 3 PPM. If the level is too low, simply add more fish food and wait for it to decay.

3. Continue To Maintain The Ammonia Levels At 3PPM, And Start To Measure For Nitrite Levels.

Regularly test the ammonia levels and maintain the upkeep by adding more food if needed. Begin to measure nitrite levels after a week and regulate the same process until both ammonia and nitrite are almost zero.

Once again when both toxin levels decrease until they become untraceable, you would have completed your cycling process!

You can begin to add fishes slowly once that happens. Quite similar to the first method, ‘fishless’ cycling also take about 6-8 weeks to finish cycling.
You can control the PH of water with this article.

Voila! You now know how to cycle your fish tank. But we’ve got one more thing…

Cheat Cycling Hack

Many seasoned fish experts have looked for ways to speed up the entire cycling process and here are 3 of the most effective hacks to have a faster cycle.

  • Take filter cartridges and pads from a mature fish tank and bring it over to your new aquarium. This basically ‘creates’ an immediate entire bacteria bed of beneficial bacteria.
  • Add substrate (gravel) from an established tank into your new set-up. Similarly it imports fully grown beneficial bacteria.
  • Lastly, add live plants into your new aquarium to promote enhanced bacteria growth.

Using these methods if you have the means, you’d be able to shave off a few weeks time in cycling your fish tank.

And That’s It!

In terms of which method is better, both are equal in result and time, so it really depends on your personal preference.

One last tip we have is we recommend against using any chemicals or artificial bacteria boosters in an attempt to speed up the procedure. This tends to weaken the stability of your aquarium’s ecosystem and leads to more problems for your fishes in the future.

And that’s it! You now know as much about how to cycle a fish tank as the next fish expert would. Let’s get cycling!

Best 10 Gallon Fish Tank For You: Top 5 Reviews

Are you considering keeping a pet? Maybe you should consider a pet fish. Why? Well, because for one, fish is a low maintenance pet, if you are to compare it with the other pets. Secondly,they come in an array of stunning colors, shapes, and sizes that will make your home look beautiful. A killer reason why we must keep fish is the fact that they are just so calm and serene.There quiet and peaceful nature will help you to relax and reassure.

Fish, as you well know, cannot survive outside of water. For this reason, you must acquire an aquarium or a fish tank which is going to be the principal housing for your fish.

Depending on what type and how many fish you want to keep, you must select your aquarium carefully; otherwise, your fish will not survive for long. Aquariums come in many sizes, the main determinant being the amount of water it can hold. Here we look at the 10-gallon fish tank, which is among the smallest but very handy fish tank you will find in the market.

Why Buy The 10-Gallon Fish Tank? The Benefits Of It

There are various reasons the 10-gallon fish tank is a popular choice. To begin with, it is ideal for those just starting out as pet fish hobbyists, or for those that have been using fishbowls and want a bigger space. Then it serves well for those with limited resources but wishes to keep an inexpensive pet. Here are a few more benefits of the 10-gallon fish tank:

Convenient

The 10-gallon fish tank is easy to install and occupies a minimal surface area.You can have it at home in your living room, bedroom, in the office, basically anywhere. It is ideal for you if you are living in small houses or apartments, or even those just starting out on the hobby. Simply install it on top of a cabinet, a table or a stand and you are good to go.

Affordable

The 10-gallon fish tank is quite cost-effective. It is pocket-friendly and a great buy for beginners or those upgrading from fish bowls. This is especially so considering that it comes equipped with all the necessary components of an aquarium such as the lighting system, heating, filtration system and test kits. If you were to buy these components separately, it would be quite expensive.

Spacious

Compared to the fishbowl, the 10-gallon fish tank is quite spacious, giving you a room to keep an assortment of fish. It also leaves some room for decoration, allowing you to add a few plants and other ornamental items.

Stylish

The 10-gallon fish tanks vary in shapes, which allows you to select one that fits your sense of style. It can be a great addition to the overall appearance of your house.

How To Choose A 10 Gallon Fish Tank

Now that you have decided to buy an aquarium, there are factors you should consider before settling down on your pick. Before you purchase your fish tank, you must do a thorough research and know exactly what to expect. Here, we suggest some of the factors to consider.These will ensure that you come up with the best pick for you and your fish.

Fish Type

What type of fish do you intend to keep? Different species of fish thrive in different conditions, so before you buy your 10-gallon fish tank, you must be aware of the type you will keep. Smaller species of fish are better with this size.

Care And Compatibility Of The Fish

You must know that fish is very delicate. For that matter, read a lot about how to care for fish in a confined environment. Read about which type of fish to keep together, since some are not compatible.

Learn about what temperature is suitable for which fish; learn about which food to feed which fish. In short, equip yourself with enough knowledge on how to care for fish before you buy a fish tank. Otherwise, you will waste your time and money and end up with dead fish.

Cost

How much are you ready to spend on your fish tank. 10-gallon fish tanks, just like any other fish tanks, come in at different prices. Determine your initial budget and the other recurrent budget that you are ready to spend on the aquarium. Consider factors such as the electricity cost, water cost, and equipment cost etc.

Quality A fish tank is one of those items that you should purchase just once unless you want to upgrade to a bigger one. For this reason, aim for the best quality that you can find. This means the fish tank must be watertight-no leakages whatsoever. Good quality fish tanks may come at a higher price, but in the long run, will serve you better.

Material

Fish tanks are basically made from two materials, they are either acrylic or glass. Decide which material appeals to you, though most people prefer tanks made from tempered glass due to its durability.

The material should also be able to tolerate varying temperatures. This is counted as an important feature especially if your residence has fluctuating temperatures in the course of the year. Of course the material should be non-toxic; otherwise, it will produce harmful toxins that will kill the fish.

Review Of The 5 Best 10-Gallon Fish Tanks

There are lots of fish tanks on market and you will definitely not miss one to fulfill your fancy. Here is a review of five of the best 10-gallon fish tanks in the market today.

Marina Style LED Aquarium Kit

Marina Style LED Aquarium Kit

This spectacular fish tank is a sight to behold. It is equipped with all the components you will need in an aquarium, one of the reasons it is one of the best-rated fish tanks. Here are some of its features:

Features

  • Made from sturdy glass and compact design.
  • The filter cartridge is easy to install and change.
  • Fast acting water conditioner.
  • Comes with two clear 15W easy to change LED bulbs that light up the tank.
  • Noiseless filter.

PROS

  • It has a beautiful, stylish design which is aesthetically appealing.
  • The filter cartridge can easily be installed and changed.
  • The water conditioner is fast-acting, responding to ammonia and nitrites in the water quickly and ridding the water of harmful toxins that could harm the fish.
  • The clear LED lights are easy to change and shine well enabling the fish and plants to thrive.
  • The filter works noiselessly and efficiently without disturbing the fish or the occupants of the house.

CONS

  • The motor can be slightly noisy, if not adjusted well.

Aqueon Aquarium

Aqueon Aquarium

This spectacular fish tank is a sight to behold. It is equipped with all the components you will need in an aquarium, one of the reasons it is one of the best-rated fish tanks. Here are some of its features:

Features

  • Made from tough tempered glass.
  • LED lights of medium brightness to illuminate the tank.
  • Five stage filtration process that keeps the water pure.

PROS

  • It has a five stage filtration process that is among the very best in the market. This ensures that the water is as pure as can be for the survival of fish.
  • Has long-lasting LED lights of medium brightness that keep the fish swimming comfortably.
  • The filtration is noiseless and efficient, ensuring that there are no toxins in the water.
  • The filter is attached to the back of the tank making the tank more aesthetically appealing.

CONS

  • The lighting is not bright enough and this may interfere with the growth of some plants.

Penn Plax Corner 10 Gallon Fish Tank

Penn Plax Corner 10 Gallon Fish Tank

This unique tank keeps loyal clients because of its appealing look. Apart from the unique design, there are other features that have made the Penn Plax one of the favorites.

Features

  • Sturdy durable glass structure.
  • Small filters that take up very little space.
  • Easy to install and maintain.

PROS

  • Made from sturdy glass that is beautiful and durable.
  • The design is versatile and can fit in very limited spaces.
  • It has an inbuilt filtration system that is small and occupies little space.
  • It is easy to install and maintain.
  • It has long-lasting energy efficient LED lights.

CONS

  • Does not come with a heater and a thermometer, so you have to buy them separately.

The Tetra Half moon

The Tetra Half moon

Certainly one of the most eye-catching fish tanks around, this tank features a unique design that allows you to view your fish from all angles due to its curved design. Below are some features that we like a lot and some not so much about this fish tank.

Features

  • Unique curved design that gives a perfect view from all angles.
  • A smaller base relative to the rest of the body.
  • Powerful filtration system.

PROS

  • Has a great curved design, devoid of corners that allow you a great view from wherever you are.
  • A relatively smaller base that enables you to fit it even in the smallest of spaces.
  • Comes with a very powerful filtration that ensures the purity of the water at all times.
  • A regulated water heater that keeps the water temperature at the recommended levels.
  • Has LED lighting that keeps tank properly illuminated throughout, enabling both the fish and the plants to thrive.

CONS

  • The lighting is not strong enough to sustain the growth of more demanding plants.

All Glass Aquarium Tank and Eco Hood Combo

All Glass Aquarium Tank and Eco Hood Combo

This aquarium is made up purely of glass, thus making it great for clear display and viewing of the life marine life it contains. Here are the other features that make this tank a favorite of pet fish lovers:

Features

  • Very spacious with wide dimensions allowing enough room to work with.
  • A detachable upper compartment that lets you feed the fish.
  • Two fluorescent light bulbs.
  • Ready- to- use standard ports that enable you to fix the electricity and filtration pipes without much hassle.

PROS

  • It is quite spacious, giving you a lot of room to use.
  • It has an easy to open compartment on top of the hood that allows for easy feeding.
  • Has ports that allow for fixing of the electric and filtration wires thus making your work easier.
  • Comes with two fluorescent bulbs, which can be easily replaced with LED bulbs.
  • It lets you experiment with your creativity, coming up with a design that meets your standards.

CONS

  • The very basic nature means it is not suitable for those that are not into DIY stuff.

Conclusion

The 10-gallon fish tank is a great aquarium for beginners. As seen above, it is affordable, convenient and stylish enough for pet fish enthusiasts. It also occupies little space and can fit perfectly both at home and in the office.

From the above reviews, we can see that all the fish tanks mentioned have features that enable fish and other marine life to survive while adding an aesthetic feel to your home. We would, however, recommend the Tetra Half Moon Aquarium unit. This is simply because of its beautiful and unique design. It allows you to view the fish and marine life from any angle. Furthermore, the design of the base allows it to be versatile, fitting in the smallest of spaces available. Then its lighting and filtration systems are superb, ensuring that the fish and the tank last for a very long time.

The Aqueon aquarium is equally a great fish tank. What stands out most about it is the unique five stage powerful filtration system that keeps the water fresh and the air supply adequate. Finally, it is safe to say that purchasing a 10-gallon fish tank is a good investment for all those seeking to keep pet fish, or those upgrading from smaller tanks and bowls. You should simply consider the factors mentioned to own one that will fulfill your needs to keep your fish happy! If you have liked reading this piece of article or if you wish to share your views, please drop your personal reviews.

5 Top-Rated Pond Pumps And How To Choose The Best One For You

Having a pond inside your own garden will be very appealing, but it also requires a lot of work for maintenance. So with this you should choose the proper pump.

Pond pumps helps the circulation of water inside your pond furthermore it helps you to conserve water and good for your fish and plants.

If you want to get a good pump, there are several things to consider.

Your Pond’s Water Flow

Ideally, the flow should be half of your pond’s volume. For example, if you have 1,500 gallons of water in your pond, the flow should be at least 750 gallons per hour (GPH).

This may also varies in waterfalls. Let’s say your waterfall’s width is about 10 inches, then it would need to have at least 100-150 GPH per inch.

Having fish in your pond may also requires to increase the flow of water of your pond. In this scenario, the water flow must be doubled. So if you have 1,500 gallons of water in your pond, then 1,500 GPH should be flowing.

Thus one of the things to consider is how capable that pump could provide a good water flow inside your pond.

The Size Of Your Pond Pump

The performance of your pump may vary depending on the pressure and resistance it’s pushing against. The total dynamic head, which refers to the elements that add pressure to your pump such as piping, elevation and water flow, is an important factor to take into consideration.

The more pressure or resistance your pump meets, the stronger it needs to be. Basically, if you have a 2,000 GPH pump, it is maxed out at just 2,000 GPH. If your total dynamic head is high, you would need to have a bigger or higher-capacity pump.

To determine the ideal size of your pump, you should measure your pond’s total dynamic head. To do so, just follow this formula:

  1.  If you have a waterfall, add one foot of head pressure for each foot of vertical lift.
  2.  Add a foot of head pressure for each 10 feet hose or pipe.
  3.  Add two feet of head pressure for each 90 degree fitting.
  4.  Add a foot of head pressure for every other type of fitting.

Once you have the total feet of your head pressure determined, you’ll be able to decide which pump is ideal for you.

A flow chart is often included by manufacturers for you to reference the rates of the pump’s GPH and total head pressure. Make sure to check out these charts before buying a pond pump to ensure that you’re getting the right one.

Kind Of Pond Pump

Another thing to consider , is it beneficial? Since its for maintenance it would cost you a lot? so before buying as well you have to know the use and the difference between the kinds of pumps that you will be using.

Submersible pumps can be more affordable. It would also be easily hidden from view as it’s placed under the water. If you wouldn’t mind regularly cleaning the pump, a submersible type may be a good choice.

External pumps have more longevity and are more energy-efficient. They may involve more complicated plumbing compared to the submersible types, and may have more noise. You might also want to hide the external pumps to keep your garden’s aesthetic appeal.

Regardless if you choose a submersible or external pump, one major factor to consider is the product’s warranty.

If your pond has fish, the pump will have to run 24/7 so a good warranty system should be in place.

The Type Of Pipe And Plumbing

Choosing the proper plumbing can also be a factor when selecting the right pond pump. Using an incorrect type of pipe can cause friction and may reduce the water flow your pump can produce.

If your water flow is higher than 4,500, you may want to use a 2-inch diameter pipe. Otherwise, your water flow might be disrupted by the pipe itself.

It is also recommended that you use a flexible PVC pipe. Why? First it is easier to install, it can also handle all the twists and turns, and it will provide more water flow.

Operational Costs

Since the pump will be running during the most of the day, you have to consider the electricity costs as well.

Most pumps indicate the amount of wattage it uses. Alternatively, you can look for how high the voltage or amps used by each pump. Amps can then be converted to watts by multiplying the amps by volts.

This formula can be used to calculate your operational costs:

Watts divided by 1000 x kWh x number of hours a day x 30.4 days per month.

Reviews

Checking on reviews (online) about pond pumps also needs to be considered. This will give you ideas what type or kind you should use and will give you some sort of advices based from their experiences of using those types of pumps.

To help you choose a pump that is suitable for your needs, we’ve rounded up 5 top-rated pond pumps.

Laguna Max-Flo 2000

Laguna Max-Flo 2000

With a maximum flow rate of 2,000 GPH, this pump can help circulate water with particles or solids and transport them to their suitable external filler systems.

It comes with a 16-inch power cord and features a magnetic-driven motor that consumes less electricity.

The product also comes with a 3-year warranty that is limited to the pump unit only.

Due to its max GPH of 2,000, this pump is good for bigger ponds that have some solid particles.

PROS

  • Can handle solids of up to 5/16 inches.
  • 3-year warranty.
  • Features SPT (Smart Pump Technology), an integrated self-regulating system that monitors the pump’s performance continuously.
  • Good for big ponds.

CONS

  • Can be expensive compared to other brands.
  • The impeller is not covered by the warranty.
  • Damages or defects caused by mishandling in transit or shipping are not covered by the warranty

Aquascape 91012 AquaForce

Aquascape 91012 AquaForce

This pump comes with a protective cage for ponds, to prevent clogging and minimize pump maintenance.

With a flow rate of up to 2,695 GPH, its larger cage openings allow solids to be easily processed by the pump.

The product also comes with a 20-foot cord and a 3-year warranty.

Due to its high GPH, it is suitable for larger ponds and waterfalls.

PROS

  • It comes with a protective cage for ponds to prevent clogging.
  • 3-year warranty.
  • Features Asynchronous Motor Technology that provides hassle-free performance and energy efficiency.
  • Oil-free design that prevents pond contamination.
  • Good for big ponds

CONS

  • More expensive than the other pumps on this list.

Tiger Pumps 120 GPH

Tiger Pumps 120 GPH

With an adjustable flow rate of up to 120 GPH and a low-noise design, this compact pump is lightweight, durable and efficient.

It comes with four individual suction cup feet that may be locked on to any surface, and a 5-feet power cord.

This product is suitable for smaller ponds or aquariums.

PROS

  • Small and lightweight.
  • Suction cups can allow for easier installation.
  • Money-back guarantee within the 12-month warranty period.
  • Good for smaller ponds and aquariums.
  • More affordable compared to other products in this list.

CONS

  • The 5-feet cord may be too short for a pond.
  • Unlike other products on the list, it does not come with a feature that allows the pump to handle solids—more prone to clogging.

KEDSUM 40W Submersible Pump

KEDSUM 40W Submersible Pump

This small yet powerful pump is suitable for medium-sized ponds and aquariums.

Its maximum flow rate is at 770 GPH, and it comes with a 1.8-meter cord. The product also comes with 5 gaskets and 2 outlet adaptors.

It also features suction cup feet for easier installation.

PROS

  • Small and lightweight but has higher GPH compared to Tiger Pumps.
  • Suction cups can allow for easier installation.
  • Good for medium-sized ponds or aquariums.
  • Comes with adaptors.
  • Afforable.

CONS

  • Lack of information about warranty.
  • It also does not come with a feature that allows the pump to handle solids.

COODIA 320 GPH Submersible Pump

COODIA 320 GPH Submersible Pump

With up to 320 GPH, this pump provides water flow control and a high lift. Using a strong magnetic ceramic rotator, it ensures energy efficiency.

It comes with 2 nozzles that allow for easier and more stable installation. It also includes 4 suction cups and a 5.9-feet power cord.

The product also offers a 12-month warranty.

PROS

  • Good for small to medium-sized ponds and aquariums.
  • Affordable.
  • Provides easy and stable installation.
  • Quiet operation and energy saving.
  • Up to 6.5 feet high lift.

CONS

  • Power cord may be too short for ponds.
  • Does not come with a feature to handle solids

While the pumps are geared for different shapes and sizes of ponds, we’ve concluded that the best pick would be the Aquascape 91012 AquaForce.

Its innovative oil-free design and cage that prevents clogging provides convenience and allows for less maintenance. It also features a 20-feet cord, which can give you flexibility on selecting the pump’s location in your pond.

The high GPH allows for more water flow, which will work great whether you have a big, medium, or small pond. It can easily accommodate a waterfall as well. Its Asynchronous Motor Technology also gives efficiency and consumes less energy.

Nevertheless, all of the products listed offer great features on their own and can be suitable for you depending on your needs.

So what have you decided on? Let us know through the comment section below.
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